Never mind what the Americans say- this is God 's own country right here in New Zealand. We drove out from Christchurch this morning across the Canterbury plain- yes, flat and a plain but endearingly massive- and then climbed into the mountains. The scale is breathtaking and the folds of the mountains have a primitive slumbering beast feel about them. Round every bend is an 'aaaaah!' moment - and a coach load of Japanese tourists snapping every last square inch. But there's enough room here for everyone and plenty to look at above their heads. We're staying in another amazing B&B with mountain and Lake views from th room, all mod cons and then some and we've just come back up from early evening drinks with our hosts. This seems to be a NZ custom and one which we're so enjoying. We get to talk to local people and hear all the news and views which enriches the whole experience enormously. Our hosts so far have been unfailingly kind, generous and interesting and tonight's hosts are no different. We sat in their sitting room looking out over the fabulous view, drinking wine and eating cheese and chatted like we'd known them for ages. Last night's hosts in Christchurch were amazing- as soon as we arrived at about 6pm, they invited us in for a drink and when we asked about the earthquake, gave us a real inside story. They've had 4 major quakes in the last couple of years- the first in Sept 2010 ( major damage but no lives lost), the biggie of Feb 2011, another last June and another last Dec 23rd. Each one brought down buildings, some of which had only just been repaired. The whole experience each time sounded horrific and yet they're so matterr of fact. Our hosts told us they were moving out in the morning for 5 weeks while their house is replastered and decorated and indeed while we were having breakfast, the removal men were already at work. Our hosts were still wonderfully friendly and helpful- but then that just seems to be the Kiwi way. At each home stay, we've had breakfast in the family kitchen, sometimes with the hosts, just like we were visiting family. After breakfast, we drove into the centre of Christchurch which brings a lump into your throat. The centre is cordoned off with piles of rubble, cranes, demolition equipment and bleakness. The cathedral has a massive hole in the west face- a lump fell out during. The June 2011 quake, further destroying it. It's so sad to see- its like seeing a little Cambridge with the heart knocked out of it. ( christchurch was modelled on Cambridge in the 1800's) They've been quite resourceful about getting the commerce up and going again- shops have been relocated to shipping containers. I loved it! It's going to take 5 years to rebuild- and will cost zillions. Apparently, 3% of all insurance payments have always gone to an earthquake fund which is now being used for rebuilding. Luckily, we felt no tremors while we were there!tomorrow we're off to Te Anau where we'll stay before driving to Milford Sound- the fjords of NZ. We are loving every minute!xxxxxxxxxxx